Dog Behavior Questions and Answers

Dog Behavior Questions and Answers

Here are some questions I've received over the years from Dog World readers and my own students, regarding their dogs' behavior. Click on any part of any underlined question to get to my answer. You can send me your own questions, if you'd like, but due to time constraints I can't promise I'll be able to answer them.

Dear Peggy,

My 8-month-old Maltese-Poodle mix recently started to pee on our bed. She is not allowed to sleep with us, and she seems to do it near our pillows. I know it is not a bladder problem. Someone suggested that it was an "attention-getting" behavior. Is this true? How can I stop her?

Dear Peggy,

I've got a 3-year-old Labrador mix that is extremely sensitive. In a couple of weeks we'll be moving to a new house. I'm curious if there is anything I can do to reduce the stress the dog probably will feel as a result of moving. She'll be home alone all day, where in the past she always has had company for at least half of the day. I've thought about bringing home another dog to help her cope with the loneliness, but I'm concerned that might add to the stress. Do you have any suggestions?

Dear Peggy,

We recently got a 9-month-old, unneutered, male Rottweiler from a family that no longer could keep him due to a forced move. His name is Toby. We have a 14-year-old son and an 8-year-old daughter at home, so we have kept a close watch on the interaction between him and the children. We also have done breed research and are aware that due to the size and temperament of this type of dog we must train and socialize him properly. He seems to be a great family dog. He is affectionate and companionable to us all and respectful of our human status for the most part. Now to my possible problem. When my daughter pets Toby, on occasion he will grumble at her. Not every time, but maybe twice a week. I don't observe a difference in the way she pets him from one occasion to the next. Also, my son roughhouses and plays with him but only has been grumbled at when he hugs him. He seems not to be upset on any of these occasions, but the grumble makes me alert and I always tell him "no" sharply. I then have them continue petting/hugging him under my close supervision for a few seconds to show that his noise did not result in his bossing them. Then they quit and move away from him. He immediately will follow them and lay his head on their laps or lie down for them to rub his tummy or just lay close to them on the floor. Should I be concerned about this? I don't want to reinforce this behavior especially if it is a form of dominance or is aggressive in nature. I don't view any other behaviors as problematic. He is not protective of his toys, space or food. On one occasion he grumbled at my daughter, I told him "no," she continued to pet him for a couple of seconds and he gave a quick bark. I reprimanded him and made him leave the room for a few minutes. He came right back in and lay at her feet. This was after he pushed between my daughter and myself when we were cuddling. He wanted petting himself but I pushed him away and cuddled her again, then included him in. My daughter is very small for her age. An average 5- or 6-year-old would be about her size and build. I don't want him to get the idea that he can dominate her. I have her give him commands and enforce obedience (such as Come) when he is on a long line, as well as have her make him sit when entering or exiting the house or car; my thinking is this will help him learn to show her more respect. Any comment would be appreciated. We really like Toby and want to help him adjust to our household in a manner that will ensure our being able to keep him for many years.

Dear Peggy,

I have a 5-month-old Standard Poodle. He is very smart and holds true to the Standard Poodle breed. The only problem I have with this young dog is he is afraid to get in and out of the RV. We travel a lot, and this is quite inconvenient and at times painful. The last time we went on a trip my other Standard Poodle was waiting outside the door, and I was trying to get the pup out. When I finally got hold of him he clawed me seriously. Is it possible he fell out of an RV prior to my taking ownership? The people I got him from also owned an RV. I only know I have to find some way to get him to load and unload out of the RV more easily. I have tried letting my other dog go in and out in front of him, but it hasn't worked. He'll climb the steps at the groomer's and in and out of the house, but he won't exit the RV. I need help, and any you can give would be greatly appreciated.

Dear Peggy,

My dog just turned 1-year-old; is it too late for training school? I really want him to go.

Dear Peggy,

My dog, a 5-month-old Scottish Terrier, recently has discovered the television. We were watching a pet special when she saw a dog and started barking at it; ever since, if she passes by the television and sees something interesting, she will stop and watch it. This includes movies, basketball games and soap operas; she will watch intently for quite some time, tilting her head and sometimes jumping at the screen. This has intrigued us; is her behavior normal? Does she comprehend what she sees? We were told this is the sign of a very intelligent animal; is that true? Should we encourage, discourage or let her alone with her new habit? My fiance heard there are videos you can buy for dogs to watch; is this true? She is extremely smart and affectionate, and we are not surprised by her latest trick, just curious.

Dear Peggy,

Although I doubt your dog's problem began as a deliberate attempt to "get attention," I am sure it is one that is hard to ignore! But scolding or any sort of negative attention only will make matters worse; stopping her behavior requires understanding why it started in the first place. Since you say it is not a bladder problem, I am assuming you have ruled out medical concerns with your veterinarian. In case you have not had your dog examined and a urinalysis performed, I strongly suggest you do so. Many chronic wetting problems can be nipped in the bud with early detection of infection or illness. Over the past two years I have been keeping track of the rate of incidences of urinary tract infections in my students' puppies by having them have routine urinalysis performed before beginning housetraining. One in four puppies on the average have been diagnosed with infections their owners were completely unaware of! There are other medical conditions, such as seizure disorders, that could cause spontaneous wetting; it is best to have a complete medical examination done on your pet when dealing with unusual elimination behavior. Another possible contributor to your dog's behavioral problem may be her age and hormonal status. Your puppy is right at the age of "puppy puberty," when increased hormone levels help the dog mature and become reproductive. Unspayed females, as well as recently spayed females, may "mark" with urine, much to the surprise of their owners. Many people believe urine marking is strictly male dog business, but this is not so. When playing in the yard with other dogs my own unspayed 10-month-old female will run over and urinate on top of any spot where one of the other dogs wets. People's beds are prime targets for marking by dominant dogs; they also can be a place where "accidents" happen. When owners are not occupying the "good spot" for sleeping, many dogs like to claim the absentee "big wolf's" bed. Whether urinating on your bed is deliberate, as a "staking claim" sort of marking behavior or a displacement behavior due to illness, once an inappropriate wetting behavior begins it can be difficult to resolve. The first step (after seeing your vet) is to get the dog on an elimination schedule. Be sure to allow free access to water except at night. When you are not home, confine your dog to prevent access to your room. Do not try to teach her "right" from "wrong" by scolding or punishing; this only will increase the likelihood of her repeating the behavior for negative attention. Dogs do not begin behaviors out of "spite," to "punish their owners," or to get attention; they do not know what will happen the first time they perform a behavior! They have their own reasons for doing what they do, and human reactions only factor in after the fact. The key to correcting this sort of problem is consistent prevention while building a new and improved relationship. Increased structure and scheduling of her daily life in your home will help her understand she is not top dog. Consider having her sleep in your room, next to your bed in a crate; this will help her understand whose bed it is and whose it isn't! Talk to your vet about spaying (if your pet isn't already spayed) and ask for a referral to a good, positive reinforcement-based training program. Getting your dog under better overall control should help increase her self-control.

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Dear Peggy,

Moving is considered one of the greatest stresses we humans endure, and it takes its toll on our pets as well. There are ways you can ease the transition and reduce some of the resulting stress your pet may experience, but I do not advise adding a second dog just yet. Once you have gotten established in your new home and have built a steady routine for yourself and your dog, getting a second dog might be a great idea. But more than likely right now a new pet would just make things more difficult for all involved, especially you! I'd suggest hiring a dog walker to help break up the long days (ask local veterinarians in your new town to refer you to reputable pet sitters). Make sure you and your dog meet and spend time together with the new pet sitter. Perhaps you can accompany him or her on a few walks around your new neighborhood, if it isn't too far away, to help them get to know each other. If your dog would be more stressed than comforted by an unfamiliar midday caretaker, see if you can arrange for a member of your family to come home at lunchtime. It will be important to give her some relief from the stress of being left alone for longer than normal in an unfamiliar home. As you get into a routine, and with your familiar furniture and possessions around, your dog most likely will adapt quickly to her new surroundings. Daily walks around your new neighborhood will not only help her to acclimate, you might meet and make new friends. See if there are any dog parks near your new home, where friendly dogs and their humans can get together. Fun physical activities will help her unload any stress-related excess energy that might otherwise begin to redirect into inappropriate behavior. Once you are living in your new home, try to care for your dog in familiar ways. Feed her at the same time using the same dog bowl. Take her out at the same times using the same leash. Consider bringing some of her stool (gross, I know) in a plastic bag from your old home and placing it in the area where you plan to have her eliminate; this will help her more quickly get the idea where she should go. If your dog always has slept in your bedroom, continue to allow her to do so. If she has slept alone, consider allowing her to sleep in your room; the company at night will offset the increase in time she must spend by herself during the day. Although she may be trustworthy with the run of your current house when no one is there, in your new home I suggest for the first few weeks leaving her limited to rooms where you spend the most time. Being confined to your kitchen (with gates, if necessary) or to your bedroom may make her feel more secure than being left alone to wander throughout the whole house. If she has any recent history of destructive or elimination behavior, and especially if she was (or still is) crate trained, confine her to her crate when she will be left alone. Keep the crate in a main area of the house where she can see and hear what is going on. Provide plenty of interesting things to chew on, especially when you are leaving. I like to use natural bones with peanut butter or soft dog treats stuffed into the marrow opening. This keeps our own dogs busy for hours and allows them an appropriate outlet for stress energy. Fencing your yard or installing a dog run as soon as possible will give you a way to provide your dog with more outside freedom and exercise. Eventually you might decide you are ready for another dog in the family, but the companionship a second dog can provide for both of you will be best enjoyed if you wait until you are settled and ready for the added responsibility. Good luck in your new home!

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Dear Peggy,

What you are describing sounds like normal, although undesirable, dominance behavior. Toby sounds like an overall great pet, and you seem to be doing many things right! But I do think it is appropriate for you to be concerned about Toby's "grumbles," as you describe them. Dogs that growl are warning "back off," and many will bite if they are not "obeyed." Dogs of all breeds can be very lovable-or given the right provocation can bite. But the sheer size of your dog gives cause for concern; a dominant adult male dog combined with certain behaviors from your children quickly can amount to trouble. I suggest neutering Toby at the earliest age recommended by your veterinarian to keep testosterone levels in check. Intact male dogs often show high levels of dominance behavior because of their hormones. As much as your children love Toby, some of their "loving" needs to be tempered; hugging around the neck easily can be recognized as potentially threatening to a dog. Dogs dominate each other by pinning and biting around the neck and throat area; hugging may be surfacing defensive aggression in your dog. If he perceives your children as lower-ranking family members their hugs especially can be annoying to him. This human display of affection may be enjoyed by some dogs and endured or merely tolerated by others, but it clearly is not appreciated by many dogs-including your own. Have your children call Toby to them, and teach them to wait until he Sits or Downs before petting him. This will help them anticipate his frame of mind and to know when he is not interested in being petted. It also requires Toby to work for a living, earning praise and affection instead of having overdoses of it for free. If you want to work on having your children approach Toby when you are present and supervising, just to be certain he is OK with them, that is fine. He needs to perceive your children as consistent leaders in your household, and they need to be helped so they don't contradict themselves. But they also need to be taught when to leave him alone; it is not subordinate behavior on your childrens' part to be respectful of the dog's needs, and undisturbed rest is one of them. Continue with your obedience training, and have your children work with him every day, to remind him continually they are small pack leaders rather than large puppies. I strongly advise you discourage any "roughhousing" sorts of play between your children and your dog; this is an arena for thinly veiled sparring and testing of strength during which your dog will score all of the points. If in play he is allowed to be dominant, he will be more likely to dominate in other interactions with your children as well.

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Dear Peggy,

I suggest working on building your dog's overall trust and willingness to follow you before attempting to change his mind about the RV. Begin by placing a leash and snugly fitted buckle collar on your dog, and then requiring him to follow you a few steps immediately before doing any of the things he loves, such as feeding, petting or playing. Use the phrase "Let's go!" Then lead him on his leash to hiding places where you have stashed toys, bones or treats. Try to build a strong positive association so collar and leash = good stuff, and "Let's go" = following you to find more good stuff! Once you feel you have created a positive foundation, place both of your dogs in the RV and talk to them nicely. Be sure you have the collar and leash on your younger dog, and when you are ready to have him jump out, use the phrase "Let's go" as you place steady, constant pressure on the leash. Do not drag your dog out, and do not jerk his neck! Don't look at him or continue to speak; just tighten the leash enough so that he has two choices: jump or feel very uncomfortable. Even as he becomes nervous or fights the leash, do not waver or loosen it. To do so would reward his resistance, and he would never learn the threat is all imagined and jumping out is really no big deal. Every time you lift him, bribe him or try to talk him out of the RV you accidentally are reinforcing his fear of jumping; you inadvertently are rewarding his resistance! He needs to make the "big jump" to learn it isn't so big after all. While having him follow a family member or your other dog would be the least traumatic approach, he apparently hasn't taken the bait. I would imagine you've already tried luring the dog out with real "bait"-food! But when none of the less drastic measures works, some dogs need a gentle "pull" in the right direction. After he makes his first very reluctant leap of faith, pet and praise him enthusiastically. Then put him up there and do it again, several times in a row. While I'm certain your dog will enjoy your positive response to his new-found bravery, his greatest reward will be overcoming his phobia and discovering he can jump out without assistance. You should notice him almost immediately improving, but I'd continue to have the leash on just in case he hesitates again and requires a little more of your helpful assistance.

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Dear Peggy,

My dog just turned 1-year-old; is it too late for training school? I really want him to go.

No, it is never too late to teach an "old dog new tricks"; it is their owners who seem to get stuck in patterns of poor handling and develop bad habits that are difficult to undo! But where there is a willing owner there is a way, so go ahead and enroll! Just be sure to look for a positive program as opposed to one based on punishment. Classes that encourage family participation help avoid handling conflicts and contradictions. Visit the class before signing up just to be sure it is the right school for you and your dog. Bring your dog with to see how he reacts and to observe how the trainer interacts with him. Make sure you do your homework once you do get into a program; probably the greatest contributor to training failure (besides not going at all!) is failing to apply what you learn on a consistent basis.

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Dear Peggy,

I know of many cases of dogs that seem to be TV watchers, and I would say it qualifies as normal behavior unless she starts trying to take over the remote control! I do not know what she comprehends; I've never been able to get a dog to answer that question when interviewed. But she is tilting her head because she is reacting to the sounds she hears, and I'd imagine she can identify dog barks (and perhaps even their meanings, such as "Danger!") and possibly people's spoken words if they are familiar cues. I once had a dog who performed tricks in front of our television in reaction to commands given in a dog biscuit commercial. The dog was geriatric and had lost her vision, justifying her rather pathetic confusion; but still . . . proof positive she recognized those words! Just to be funny I once made a videotape for my students' dogs of myself saying lots of familiar commands. The ones who have shown it to their dogs say they show great responsiveness to my TV personality, either wagging tails and obeying or whining and sniffing around the television looking for me. I consider this a sign of intelligence, at least on the dogs' part; I'm not quite sure what it says about me but don't want to think about it too much! The only problem with encouraging TV watching is she may become bothersome with overreactions to the moving figures she observes and the sounds she hears. Barking back at the television would not be considered cute for very long, I'm afraid. The other concern, of course, is trying to figure out what to let her watch; I don't think there are ratings yet for dog programs! I have heard of videotapes people are making for dogs to watch. Ask about them at pet stores or search specialty pet catalogs. I suppose renting Lassie, Benji, and Rin Tin Tin videos might work . . . or maybe "That Darn Cat"! But remember, too much television is not supposed to be good for us; it may be detrimental to your dog as well. If she begins to develop strong cravings for boxes of dog biscuits and loses interest in outside play with her friends, cut back on her TV time. But please do write immediately if you notice her reading the "TV Guide"!

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2003